Europe on Two Martinis a Day - Part 8 (The Road Home)
Monday, September 8th, 2008 01:02 amHaving arrived in Greece, I relaxed a bit, since it seemed more likely that we would make it home before our interrail passes ran out. We would have liked to spend an extra day or two in Greece and at least see Athens, but time pressed, and all we saw of Athens was the station before we sped on to Thessaloniki, which was where we had entered Europe.
Thessaloniki is a pleasant place. My Turkish friends say it's like Izmir before that city was swollen by migration from the East. Like many Greek towns, the coastal strip is full of cafes frequented by young women with expensive shoes, short skirts and long legs (or maybe it's the shoes and skirts that make their legs look long, like the optical illusion with the pillars of the Parthenon), while the less expensive places are full of cafes frequented by old men.

As I said, the women of Thessaloniki like to dress up. "Athenian women are all frumps," said the assistant in the shoe shop. Ah yes, another shoe shop. Our quest in Greece was to find Nalan a pair of gladiator sandals, and after traversing Thessaloniki from end to end, we found them. This meant that pretty much everything had been crossed off the European shopping list, so we could relax and reward ourselves with some first-rate sea food.

From Thessaloniki, the journey home was easy. The night train between Thessaloniki and Istanbul is the most comfortable I know. Normally I won't pay extra for a sleeping car, since most sleeping cars are like moving barracks, but the Philia-Dostluk Express has proper sleeping compartments for two, ideal for couples who want to act out their steamy train fantasies or just break the no-smoking rules. In typically Turkish fashion, after showing us how the beds unfolded, the guard said "Oh, and if you want to smoke, just close the door and open the window."

I should conclude with a description of majesty of Istanbul, gateway to Asia, complete with references to the Orient Express, bazaars and mosques, but I don't have it in me. Istanbul is home, or pretty near home. The exotic has become the familiar and vice versa: the quiet orderliness of Vienna is now more exotic to me than the noisy chaos of Istanbul. Travel may indeed broaden the mind, but migration turns it inside out and back to front.
Thessaloniki is a pleasant place. My Turkish friends say it's like Izmir before that city was swollen by migration from the East. Like many Greek towns, the coastal strip is full of cafes frequented by young women with expensive shoes, short skirts and long legs (or maybe it's the shoes and skirts that make their legs look long, like the optical illusion with the pillars of the Parthenon), while the less expensive places are full of cafes frequented by old men.
As I said, the women of Thessaloniki like to dress up. "Athenian women are all frumps," said the assistant in the shoe shop. Ah yes, another shoe shop. Our quest in Greece was to find Nalan a pair of gladiator sandals, and after traversing Thessaloniki from end to end, we found them. This meant that pretty much everything had been crossed off the European shopping list, so we could relax and reward ourselves with some first-rate sea food.
From Thessaloniki, the journey home was easy. The night train between Thessaloniki and Istanbul is the most comfortable I know. Normally I won't pay extra for a sleeping car, since most sleeping cars are like moving barracks, but the Philia-Dostluk Express has proper sleeping compartments for two, ideal for couples who want to act out their steamy train fantasies or just break the no-smoking rules. In typically Turkish fashion, after showing us how the beds unfolded, the guard said "Oh, and if you want to smoke, just close the door and open the window."
I should conclude with a description of majesty of Istanbul, gateway to Asia, complete with references to the Orient Express, bazaars and mosques, but I don't have it in me. Istanbul is home, or pretty near home. The exotic has become the familiar and vice versa: the quiet orderliness of Vienna is now more exotic to me than the noisy chaos of Istanbul. Travel may indeed broaden the mind, but migration turns it inside out and back to front.