Gate to Woman's Country

In Ankara, like medieval European cities, there is a tendency for shops of a similar type to cluster together. Yesterday, while wandering around aimlessly, I spent some time window- and poster-gazing in an area that is full of computer shops and cinemas, before walking through a couple of streets of wall-to-wall cafes and bars to arrive in the Women's Zone. Of course there were no signs saying "Welcome to Amazonia" or diesel dykes with staves fending off stray male pedestrians - it was an altogether more subtle thing based on the types of establishments. The pavement cafes were not exclusively patronised (matronised?) by women, but there were a lot more of them, and the menus featured about ten different flavours of coffee and herbal teas (this is not something you expect in a Turkish cafe, which generally offers a choice of tea, instant coffee or Turkish coffee). In place of the ubiquitous Ankara liquor store, there was what is probably central Ankara's only fine wine shop.

Then there are the clinics. On one side of the road was the Hera Women's Health Centre. "Nice," I thought - classical but not cliched. Aphrodite would have suggested a cosmetic surgery clinic, and although Athena would add a touch of intellectual class, a virgin who sprang fully armed from her father's head is probably not the best goddess to invoke on gynaecological matters. On the other side of the road, though, was a sign that had me laughing out loud: Medea Marriage and Family Counselling. Either someone didn't have a clue about classical mythology, or she had a wicked sense of humour.